It all started with a tuxedo. Those who know me know that this garment, menswear’s most sophisticated, was my first obsession as a designer, as well as the first challenge I faced after founding my brand in 2015.
I realize that it was not the most original choice, because there is truly something irresistible in this impeccable piece of formal wear, one of the first contact points between haute couture and men’s fashion. That’s why my first collection for women revamps those very characteristics that make the tuxedo so alluring: seduction, intellectual transgression, provocation, and luxury. A dialogue on the genre’s frontier that has Nieves Álvarez as its image and muse. The choice is not by chance: it was the model and host who, on her own initiative, started to hire me to create variations on the tuxedo when I started my career. Recently, I turned this piece into an essential element of my stylistic vocabulary, and its audacity is part of the spark of this collection.
I also propose a new twist on my now classic references in this collection: the fashion of the disco era, unabashed luxury, and the language of great fashion. These designs feature a reinterpretation of the fabulous women who invaded catwalks, soirées, screens and magazines in the excessive eighties. Mugler, Halston, Gigli, Gaultier, Versace. Hence its silky textures, its baroque embroidery, and its silhouettes, sharp as eyeliner’s trace. My first women’s collection evokes that extremely empowering element found in early power dressing, a style forged in long nights, ambiguous atmospheres, and sparkling revelry, which have awed me through the pages of magazines, books, and videos since I was a child.
There is more than just nostalgia, however, even though everything I design ties to my life, my obsessions, my crush in one way or another: the collection also features a contemporary sensibility applied to cuts, materials, and techniques. After all, it is the woman of today who I want to dress. Overcoming the fear of tuxedos is the first of many battles won.